I’m sure you have seen several men’s underwear sites making the same promises. “Premium” and “breathable” are what they claim. But almost none of them can tell you what that actually means. How come you ask? Well, let’s be honest… most of them have never touched a bolt of fabric in their life. We’ve been cutting and sewing underwear in our factory since 2008. Here’s what we’ve learned about the fabrics we use, why we pick them, and which ones will make the most sense for you.
Microfiber: The Do-Everything Fabric
There is a reason why Microfiber is our most-used fabric across the MaleBasics line. The term refers to any synthetic fiber with a denier (thickness) below 1.0 (a human hair is about 20 denier). Sub-denier fibers create a fabric surface that feels silky but wicks moisture faster than cotton.
Our standard microfiber is a nylon-spandex blend. It is typically 82% nylon and 18% spandex at 160-200 GSM (grams per square meter — the measure of fabric weight). That blend gives you 4-way stretch with over 90% recovery. What this means is that when the fabric is stretched and then let go, it will snap back to its original shape. It’s what we use in our boxer briefs, briefs, and long johns.
The quick-dry property is why microfiber dominates performance underwear. Cotton absorbs moisture and holds it. On the other hand, microfiber moves it to the surface where it can more easily evaporate. If you’re wearing long johns as a gym base layer or under work clothes all day, microfiber should work best for you.
Cotton: Comfortable but Limited
Let’s face it, cotton breathes well and feels very familiar. Cotton most definitely serves a place in the underwear world. However, the problem that one might encounter with cotton is durability and moisture management. Standard cotton underwear absorbs sweat and stays wet. This can lead to chafing. Cotton also loses its shape faster than synthetics. Feeling that saggy-seat feeling after a few hours? That’s cotton losing its recovery. We choose to use cotton where it makes sense. But we make sure to blend it. A 90% cotton, 10% elastane mix gives you the breathable cotton feel with enough stretch to hold its fit through the day. For men who don’t feel comfortable wearing anything synthetic, this is the compromise that works.
Pima Cotton: A Different Animal
Pima cotton is not regular cotton. The fibers are 35% longer than standard cotton (35mm+ staple length vs 25mm). This means the yarn is smoother, the fabric pills less, and it lasts significantly longer. We use 95% Peruvian Pima with 5% lycra in our premium long johns — the result is a fabric that’s soft like modal but with cotton’s breathability.
You will notice that Pima costs more. This is because the cotton itself costs more. The reason for this is that it’s grown in specific climates (Peru, parts of the southwestern US) and yields less per acre. I encourage you to question the sourcing of the material if you see a product labeled “Pima” at a budget price point. How can you tell if it is the real deal? Well, real Pima has a hand feel you can recognize immediately — smoother, denser, with a subtle sheen that standard cotton doesn’t have.
Lace: Not Just for Looks
Lace has a reputation as purely decorative, but from a manufacturing perspective, it has real functional properties. Our roll lace — 85% nylon, 15% spandex — is one of the most breathable fabrics we work with. The open-knit structure creates natural airflow channels that solid fabrics can’t match.
One challenge that we encountered with men’s lace is that lace patterns were originally designed for women’s garments. As a result, our team had to go to the drawing board and re-draft every pattern. We included an anatomical pouch and adjusted the seam placement for male proportions. The fabric itself also behaves differently during cutting — it needs to rest overnight on the table before we can cut it, because the tension from being rolled causes dimensional instability. We learned quickly that if we were to skip that step, the finished garment would shrink unevenly after the first wash.
If you’re exploring panties for men for the first time, lace is worth trying specifically because of the breathability. It’s a different feel than microfiber — more texture against the skin, more airflow, and it conforms differently because of the open knit structure.
Mesh: Maximum Airflow
We like to call mesh lace’s bolder cousin. Our TULL mesh comes in two weights: a light version (95.2% nylon, 4.8% elastane) that’s essentially sheer, and a stretch version (80% nylon, 20% elastane) with more body and recovery. The light TULL will work best for you when visibility is the point — it’s transparent and ultra-thin. The stretch version is more practical for daily wear in our mesh underwear collection.
From a production standpoint, mesh is actually easier to sew than lace. This is because the fabric edges are more stable during cutting. On the other hand, it’s less forgiving of poor construction. Every seam can be visible through the fabric, so the stitching has to be precise. We use flatlock seams on all mesh styles because a standard overlock seam would create a visible ridge.
Satin: The Underrated Option
Most don’t know that satin isn’t a fiber — it’s a weave. The “floating” yarns on the surface create that smooth, cool-to-the-touch feel. We use satin primarily in our loungewear line (shorts, robes) and in our men’s panty styles, where that slippery texture is part of the appeal. The downside of satin is that it snags easily and doesn’t have the stretch recovery of a knit fabric. It’s not a performance fabric — it’s a feel-good fabric. Want everyday wear underwear? Microfiber is the better call. Want something to lounge in? Have a great date night planned? Want a smooth texture against skin? Then look no further than Satin.
How to Pick the Right Fabric for You
Just as there is no “one size fits all” there is also no one fabric does all. It truly comes down to what you’re doing in them. Microfiber handles everything from desk jobs to deadlifts. Cotton blends work for guys who run hot and prioritize breathability over stretch. Pima cotton is the premium daily-wear option if you don’t want synthetics. Lace and mesh serve double duty — breathable enough for warm weather, bold enough for nights out. Satin is for when comfort is more about sensation than function.
Every fabric we use gets the same construction: contour pouch, flatlock inner seams, woven elastic waistbands. The sewing doesn’t change — the fabric choice is about what you want against your skin. If you’re unsure, start with a microfiber boxer brief or boyshorts — it’s the most universally comfortable fabric in our lineup, and it’ll give you a baseline to compare everything else against.
